Back-Greige Seam Impression — This is a seam impression from the back greige or cushion fabric affecting printing by creating a thicker substrate.

Severity: Major

Category: VI

Bias — A condition in wovens where the filling yarns are off-square to the warp end. In knits, the courses are off-square to the wales.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Birdseye — The result of erratic and unintentional tucking caused by a malfunctioning needle.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Bow — A condition in wovens where the filling yarns lie in an arc across the width of the fabric. In knits, the courses lie in an arc across the width of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Broken Color Pattern — This defect is the result of a colored yarn being out of place in the creel.

Severity: Major

Category: IV

Broken End — This is the result of a warp end breaking and the excess yarn being woven into the filling direction of the fabric. This should have been cleaned up or manicured by the weaver when the broken end was repaired.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Broken Pattern — The color pattern is broken by the insertion of two picks of white filling in the blue filling wise stripe. This is most likely due to the failure of a weaver to properly reset the pattern chain after servicing the loom for a missing or broken pick.

Severity: Major

Category: IV

Broken Pattern or Color Misdraw — This is a very subtle defect and is the result of a wrong draw in the color pattern. It is probably done during the tying on a new warp. If the tying-in machine misses one end of a particular color, it will break the pattern for the rest of the width of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: IV

Broken Pick — This description best suits the appearance of the defect; however, this is not a broken pick. The check in this fabric is achieved filling-wise by three picks of filling in one shed; that is, the shed stays open for three picks. The filling must be trapped by each selvage while the shed is open. In this instance, the tape selvage failed to trap the filling allowing it to be jerked back into the body of the fabric, resulting in two picks missing for a portion of the width.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Broken Pick — This is where the pick is missing for a portion of the width of the fabric. In an Oxford weave, when one pick is missing, the picks on either side come together in the same shed giving the effect of a double pick.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Broken Picks — This is the result of the filling yarn becoming snarled or entangled on the filling bobbin. It appears to have been broken and caught up several times while the loom continued to run. The 100% textured polyester yarn tends to fray badly when the yarn breaks.

Severity: Minor

Category: II

Burl — This is the result of a jerked-in piece of yarn having been removed by pulling it from the selvage. While no yarns ruptured, an open place is left in the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Burl — This is the result of a piece of wild filling having been removed with a burling tool.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Burl — This is the result of a knot after burling.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Burl Mark — This is the result of a slub or piece of wild filling having been removed with the use of a burling tool.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Burl Mark — This is the result of a slub or piece of wild filling having been removed with the use of a burling tool.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Buttonhole Selvage — This defect is the result of tension build up in the shuttle. It can be caused by several things: a crooked bobbin, bobbins not ringing properly, placing the tip of the bobbin too close to the shuttle eye, waste restrictions in the eye of the shuttle. The taut filling, pulling the selvage toward the body of the fabric, results in shed-splitting near the edge of the fabric. This defect may occur in isolated instances or continuously with the running out of each bobbin depending upon the cause.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Chopped Filling — This defect is the result of alternately light and heavy filling caused by the eccentric behavior of a drafting roll, most likely the front roll of the drawframe. This defect occurs in isolated instances and generally is of one package duration.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Chopped Filling — This effect is the result of light and heavy filling caused by the eccentric behavior of a drafting roll, most likely the front roll of a drawframe. It has been accentuated in this warp-face fabric by having been sueded. This defect generally appears in isolated instances of one-bobbin duration.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Clip Mark — This mark is the result of a metal clip having been used to prevent or correct a selvage turndown.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Coarse End — This end, being twice the size of the regular ends, is the unwanted result of two bobbins of roving running in spinning in what commonly is referred to as doubling.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Coarse End — This end, being twice the size of the regular ends, is the unwanted result of two bobbins of roving running in spinning in what commonly is referred to as doubling.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Coarse End — This is a slightly coarse end that would not have been noticeable had it not been accentuated by sueding.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Coarse Pick — Two coarse picks are inserted into consecutive sheds.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Coarse Pick — A single coarse pick is inserted.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Coarse Pick — Consists of three picks of coarse filling.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Coarse Pick — The filling yarn inserted is coarser than specified.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Coarse Yarn — This is the result of one feed of yarn being much coarser than normal for the fabric. The result is barré.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Cockled Yarn — This fabric is constructed of a 100% cotton warp and 100% polyester filling. What appear to be tiny slubs is the result of polyester fibers that are too long for the roll settings on the spinning frame. This results in the fibers being caught by succeeding draft rolls before being turned loose by preceding ones; the fibers are stretched and then released to snap and curl (cockle).

Severity: Minor

Category: II

Color Fly — This is the result of small amounts of colored fiber being spun into yarn of another stock. This can happen in the reworking of waste or where different fibers or colors are running in close proximity without adequate precaution being taken to prevent contamination.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Color Fly — This is the result of small amounts of colored fiber being spun into yarn of another stock. This can happen in the reworking of waste or where different fibers or colors are running in close proximity without adequate precaution being taken to prevent contamination.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Color Out — This is the result of color running low in the reservoir.

Severity: Major

Category: VI

Color Smear — This is the result of the color being smeared out of the engraved design.

Severity: Major

Category: VI

Color Spot — This is the result of one beam of a slasher set being spotted with indigo. The spot is spread out according to the proportion of that beam to the total number of beams in the set. In this case, one of eight.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Compactor Creases — These occurred during compacting, which is a mechanical process designed to reduce shrinkage and give stability to the fabric. This fabric is passed through the compactor in flat tube form, and wrinkles on the folded selvage were compressed into hard creases.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Correct Cover — Proper settings allow the warp yarn to dominate and form smooth surface of accentuated twill lines.

Severity: -

Category: IV

Corrugation — This defect is caused by the sanforizer blanket not properly controlling the compacting of the fabric during sanforization. Generally, it is caused by the blanket not being tight enough or a soft place in the blanket. When it is caused by a defective blanket, it will repeat at regular intervals.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Crease Streak — This is the result of creased fabric passing through squeeze rolls in the dyeing operation and the crease then being removed in a subsequent process.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Crease Sueded — This is the result of a creased fabric passing through the sueder. The precision set sueder roll cuts deeper into the creased areas due to the extra thickness.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Doctor Blade Streak — This is the result of a bent or damaged doctor blade not cleaning properly, allowing color to escape.

Severity: Major

Category: VI

Doctor Blade Streak — This is the result of a bent or damaged doctor blade not cleaning properly, allowing color to escape.

Severity: Major

Category: VI

Double End — This defect is the result of an extra end being woven into the fabric. The extra end creates small flat distortions in the twill line.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Double End — This defect is the result of an extra end being woven into the fabric. The extra end creates small flat distortions in the twill line.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Double End — This defect is the result of an extra end being woven double with a regular end of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Double End — This defect is the result of an extra end being woven double with a regular end of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Double End — While this appears as a dark end, it actually is caused by two ends of a finer denier being knit together as one.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Double Picks — This is the result of one filling feed on a four-feed Sulzer weaving machine picking up the end from the reserve supply package and pulling in a double filling on every fourth pick. This will continue to run until noticed by the operator.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Dragging End — This is the result of an end being knit under erratic and excessive tension. This quite often is caused by ends being entangled and/or trapped on the warp beam.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Drawback (Small) — This defect is the result of a mat-up behind the harness that causes the ends to run taut and force the undyed filling to dominate the cover of the fabric.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Drawback (Small) — This is a similar defect but in a piece-dyed fabric. In both cases, the mat-up is removed before an end ruptures. There is always a corresponding slackness of ends when the restriction is removed.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Drawbacks — These are defects caused by excessive tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed, the excess slack is woven gradually into the fabric. Drawbacks may vary in length from inches to yards and often result in ruptured ends.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Drawbacks — These are defects caused by excessive tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed, the excess slack is woven gradually into the fabric. Drawbacks may vary in length from inches to yards and often result in ruptured ends.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Drawbacks — These are defects caused by excessive tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed, the excess slack is woven gradually into the fabric. Drawbacks may vary in length from inches to yards and often result in ruptured ends.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Dropped Picks — This is the result of the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding, thus releasing the filling yarn too soon. This allows the yarn to snap into the body, leaving a missing pick part way across the width of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Dropped Pick — This is the result of the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding, thus releasing the filling yarn too soon. This allows the yarn to snap into the body, leaving a missing pick part way across the fabric. The released yarn then weaves into the fabric in a tangled mass and appears as a kinked or wild yarn.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Dropped Stitches — This is the result of stitches failing to form due to a malfunctioning needle or jack.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Dropped Stitches — This is the result of stitches failing to form due to a malfunctioning needle or jack.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — The end out leaves a thin dark line on the face of the fabric with short filling floats on the back. The ladder-like effect of the filling floats is a quick and easy way to identify this defect.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — This end out also takes place in the plain weave area of the fabric and appears as a thin place and a double end. When one end in a plain wave is missing, the adjacent ends fall together and weave as one.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — The cord effect of this fabric is attained by two red ends weaving plain between each end of 2/ply white. The 2/ply white end also weaves plain with adjoining red ends. The defect is the result of one red end missing.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — The end out appearance results with two ends on either side coming together and weaving as one giving the appearance of an end out.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — This defect is the result of a loom continuing to run after an end is broken.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — The end out appearance results with two ends on either side coming together and weaving as one giving the appearance of an end out.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — This defect is the result of the knitting machine continuing to run with an end missing. The back of the fabric is shown, since the defect is clearly seen on the back and not the face.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — This defect is the result of the knitting machine continuing to run with an end missing.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out — This defect is the result of the knitting machine continuing to run with an end missing.

Severity: Major

Category: I

End Out and Straying End — This is the result of a broken end straying over and being knit irregularly into another area of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Filling Floats — This is the result of a knot with long ears intermittently interfering with the interlacing of the warp and filling as it makes its way through the harness to the fell of the cloth.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Filling Floats (see also shed-splitting, undershots, and overshots) — Picks of filling extending unbound over or under warp ends with which they should have been interlaced.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Filling Slub — Filling yarn with a short thick place in a yarn.

Severity: Minor

Category: II

Filling Slub — Filling yarn with a short thick place in a yarn.

Severity: Minor

Category: II

Fine Yarn — Loose Course — This defect is the result of a fine yarn; however, the appearance is very similar to that of a loose course. Both defects appear as fine width-wise cracks. This view is the back of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Flat or Harness Misdraw — This harness misdraw results in two ends weaving as one and opposing two other ends weaving as one. This is commonly referred to as a "flat."

Severity: Major

Category: I

Flat or Harness Misdraw — This harness misdraw results in two ends weaving as one and opposing two other ends weaving as one. This is commonly referred to as a "flat."

Severity: Major

Category: I

Foreign Fiber — This is the result of a piece of polyester waste being spun into a cotton warp yarn.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Fuzz Balls — This is the result of insufficient size on the warp yarns (often referred to as a soft warp) lowering their resistance to the abrasion of the harness and reed. The fibers are broken loose and pushed back on the yarn forming balls of fuzz encircling the yarn. This contributes to very poor weaving conditions and often necessitates the removal of the warp from the loom.

Severity: Major

Category: III

Gouts — This defect is the result of masses of accumulated short fiber (fly) being drawn undrafted into the filling yarn during the spinning process. Gouts differ from slubs in that they are characterized by a lumpy appearance while slubs generally are symmetrical.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Hang Pick or Loopy Filling — This defect is the result of the filling hanging on the knot which appears approximately one-half inch above the filling loops in the photograph. During weaving, the filling hangs on the knot for a split second until freed by the stroke of the reed.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Hang Thread — This is the result of a weaver failing to clip the excess thread after repairing a broken end and the cloth inspector failing to remove it in the final inspection. The thread on the face of the fabric restricts the penetration of dye into the fabric beneath it resulting in a light streak.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Harness Balk — This defect is the result of one harness of this six-harness plain weave failing to move in its prescribed sequence, causing a pick of filling to float over certain warp ends with which it should have interlaced.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Harness Breakdown — This is the result of harness straps breaking on a conventional loom. This view shows the effect of the harness staying down and the warp floats on the back of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Harness Breakdown — This is the result of harness straps breaking on a conventional loom. This view shows the effect of the harness staying up and the warp floats on the face of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Harness Misdraw — This is the result of two ends being drawn wrong through the harness. Instead of the 1-2-3-4 draw, they are drawn 1-3-2-4. This distorts the weave and breaks the twill line.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Harness Misdraw — This is the result of ends being drawn wrong through the harness. This takes place in a plain weave section of the fabric resulting in what is commonly called a "flat."

Severity: Major

Category: I

Hole — This is where the fabric has been pulverized during compaction. This is the back of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: V

Hole — This is the result of a lint ball interfering with the normal interloping of the yarn.

Severity: Major

Category: III

Indigo Dye Range Stop — This is the result of a machine stop on an indigo range. In this case, one end on the indigo range contains approximately one-eight of the total ends in the loom warp. This condition exists in a filling wise band of approximately fifteen inches.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Jerk-in — This is the result of an extra piece of filling yarn having been jerked by the shuttle part way into the body of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Jerk-in — This is the result of an extra piece of filling having been jerked by the shuttle from the selvage part way into the body of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Kinky Filling — This defect is the result of the filling yarn twisting on itself. Causes are shuttle not boxing properly, a malfunctioning filling fork, too much power on the picker stick, excessive twist in the yarn, inadequate setting of filling twist, etc. Kinky filling is most common approximately eight to ten inches in the selvage and is erratic in its placement. When caused by a center filling fork, the kinks will appear in a line down the center of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Knot — This is a spooler knot.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Knot — A place where two ends of yarn have been tied together, and the tails of the knot are protruding from the surface.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Knot — A place where two ends of yarn have been tied together, and the tails of the knot are protruding from the surface.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Threshold Scale for Knots — These graduations of slubs are designed to facilitate determination of thresholds-for-penalty in point grading. Scale of 1 to 5 with 1 being the lowest penalty and 5 being the highest penalty.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Threshold Scale for Knots — These graduations of slubs are designed to facilitate determination of thresholds-for-penalty in point grading. Value of 1.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Threshold Scale for Knots — These graduations of slubs are designed to facilitate determination of thresholds-for-penalty in point grading. Value of 2.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Threshold Scale for Knots — These graduations of slubs are designed to facilitate determination of thresholds-for-penalty in point grading. Value of 3.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Threshold Scale for Knots — These graduations of slubs are designed to facilitate determination of thresholds-for-penalty in point grading. Value of 4.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Threshold Scale for Knots — These graduations of slubs are designed to facilitate determination of thresholds-for-penalty in point grading. Value of 5.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Knots with Halos — These are spooler knots. During the dyeing process the knots, being the last to dry, tend to wick the dye from the surrounding area, leaving halos.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Loom Bar — This is a defect characterized by a change of shade due to a build up of tension in the loom shuttle just before a filling change. There is always a difference in tension between a full bobbin and an almost empty one; however, this condition can be accentuated by a restriction in the shuttle eye, a weak or badly worn shuttle spring, a bobbin not ringing properly, a crooked bobbin, etc. It can be repetitive at each filling change or isolated depending on the exact cause.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Loom Waste — This is the result of accumulated fly waste having been blown into or pulled into the loom shed by the shuttle or filling yarn.

Severity: Minor

Category: II

Print Machine Stop - This is the result of excess print paste smudging the fabric during the machine stop.

Severity: Major

Category: VI

Mat-up — This defect is the result of several ends breaking and entangling so as to interfere with the proper interlacing of ends and picks.

Severity: Major

Category: III

Misdraw (Color) — This is usually the result of an end being threaded or drawn into the wrong guide bar. It may also result from mixing yarn. In some instances, it can be traced to a creeling error in warping, causing an end to appear out of position on the warp beam.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Misdraw (Color) — This is usually the result of an end being threaded or drawn into the wrong guide bar. It may also result from mixing yarn. In some instances, it can be traced to a creeling error in warping, causing an end to appear out of position on the warp beam.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Misdraw (Color) — This is usually the result of an end being threaded or drawn into the wrong guide bar. It may also result from mixing yarn. In some instances, it can be traced to a creeling error in warping, causing an end to appear out of position on the warp beam.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Mispick — This is the result of one pick missing from the fabric. Close examination of a spun-yarn fabric will show the two separate yarns; however, in a filament fabric, the two merge and appear as one coarse yarn.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Mispick — This is the result of one pick missing from the fabric. This mispick looks identical to a coarse pick. This is because in a plain weave when one pick is missing, the picks on either side come together in the same shed. Close examination of a spun-yarn fabric will show the two separate yarns; however, in a filament fabric, the two merge and appear as one coarse yarn.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Mispick — This defect is the result of one pick of filling missing from the fabric. The appearance of this defect is affected by the weave.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Mispick — This defect is the result of one pick of filling missing from the fabric. The appearance of this defect is affected by the weave.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Mispick — This defect is the result of one pick of filling missing from the fabric. The appearance of this defect is affected by the weave.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Miss-selection — This is where the pattern design has been corrupted by the random dropping of stitches. It could be the result of sticking jacks or erratic behavior of the yarn feed.

Severity: Major

Category: IV

Missing Yarn — This is the result of a machine continuing to run with one yarn broken and/or missing. The result is barré. .

Severity: Major

Category: II

Missing Yarn — This is the result of a machine continuing to run with one yarn broken and/or missing. The result is barré.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Missing Yarn — This is the result of a machine continuing to run with one yarn broken and/or missing. The result is barré. .

Severity: Major

Category: II

Missing Yarn — This is the result of a machine continuing to run with one feed of yarn missing.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Mixed Filling — The nubby effect, which is a desired characteristic of this fabric, is lost or greatly reduced by the difference in the filling at the top of the photograph. This constitutes a defect.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Mixed Filling (also Filling Band) — This defect is the result of a bobbin of lightweight filing; the twill line is subdued and the shade is affected. Since it is a mixed filling problem on this 3/1 left hand twill, the defect is more noticeable from the back.

Severity: Major

Category: II

Mixed Yarn — This is one warp end of an all-cotton yarn running in a 50/50 cotton/polyester blend. In this fabric, only the cotton is dyed so that the all-cotton yarn shows dark.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Mixed Yarn — This is the result of a yarn with different dye affinity having been mixed during creeling of the warp.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Mottled — This term is used to describe a condition where color or dye is unevenly applied to or accepted by a fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: VI

Needle Line — The result of a bent needle.

Severity: Minor

Category: I

Neppy — This condition is characterized by an excessive amount of neps (small tangles and/or knots of fiber) appearing on the surface of the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: III

Oil Spot — Oil spots are deposits of oil that have fallen onto the fabric from some processing step and are typically round or tear drop in shape. They can also have an irregular shape.

Severity: Minor

Category: III

Oil Spot — Oil spots are deposits of oil that have fallen onto the fabric from some processing step and are typically round or tear drop in shape. They can also have an irregular shape.

Severity: Major

Category: III

Open Reed — This is the result of a bent reed wire leaving a crack in the fabric.

Severity: Major

Category: I

Open Reed — This defect is the result of a bent reed wire holding the warp ends apart exposing the filling.

Severity: Major

Category: I